Innovation & Impact: An Interview with Bhayli
After displaying Bhayli’s products at a Jaipur Engineering College & Research Centre, we were asked by Lakshita Sharma, to share a bit about the Bhayli initiative for the college’s MBA Department Magazine. What follows is an interview with Bhayli’s director, Erin Burneson.
Bhayli’s story is rooted in both innovation and compassion. Can you take us back to the moment when the idea for Bhayli first came to life?
Bhayli’s founder Angraj Swami, began the project in 2020 during Covid when he saw a need for women in his village to secure sustainable livelihoods. He observed their resourcefulness and creativity in reusing whatever they had around the house to make something new. Rural women, whether they realize it or not, are some of India’s best up-cyclers, and Angraj realized that if ECOWRAP could provide the resources (namely, the waste), women could empower themselves.
Shelf outside the home of a few of our creative partners who have reused various containers for most of their potted plants.
While we initially began by painting glass bottles and making furniture from tires, we identified the need to change the form and function of the waste the ladies were working with. We began to really prioritize aesthetics. We didn’t want people to purchase products based on empathy for the cause, or because they are made from waste, but rather purchase because they are beautifully designed and well crafted. This shift challenged us to push ourselves to come up with more innovative ways to utilize trash. Initially, some ideas were a total flop, while others showed promise if we could improve our methods.
In 2023, we developed and trained creative partners in the two up-cycled art forms we are currently using: “cane”weaving single use plastic water bottles, and hand embossing used beverage cans. From there, we started designing our “Waste to Weave” and “Trash to Tile” product lines.
Creative Partner, Urmila Devi’s, first day learning how to weave.
How did a group of men solving waste management challenges end up empowering rural women through creative up-cycling?
One of ECOWRAP’s hopes from the start, was to build a monetary sense of waste within society. Observing in rural women, the natural propensity for up-cycling, and acknowledging the unique access ECOWRAP has to an abundance of resources needed for up-cycling on a larger scale, ECOWRAP saw starting Bhayli as an opportunity for women to empower themselves. Bhayli’s creative partners are playing an instrumental role in helping ECOWRAP change society’s perception of waste; by using it as natural resource to create raw materials.
Holding up the final piece of “cane”weave that will be used as raw material.
Unlike textile waste in Jaipur, which is often very colorful and beautifully printed, we wanted to find a purpose for more “unaesthetic” waste, and utilize it in a way that is unexpected. Unless you closely inspected the final “cane”weave for the rupee amount occasionally printed on the plastic bottles, or see the underside of tiles before they are placed in the final product, few would know, upon first glance, that our product are made from waste materials. It is incredibly satisfying to watch someone discover that our products are made from such an unexpected material. It creates a lasting impact.
Just a portion of the single use plastic water bottles ECOWRAP collects over the course of a month
As society becomes more mindful of how waste can be utilized, ECOWRAP’s hope is that Bhayli will continue to challenge people to consider the potential of waste, and reconsider dumping it. There is a lot of synergy between ECOWRAP’s long-term goals, and what BHAYLI is presently doing. Bhayli hopes to continue to explore the potential of additional types of waste material, and develop new up-cycled art forms.
What does the name “Bhayli” mean to you today, beyond just its literal translation?
Our name, “Bhayli” (which means “saheli” or “a female friend” in Marwari), is a nod to our roots in rural Rajasthan. We wanted a name that represented the women we partner with, which is why we chose a name from their local language. The name suits us well as we continue to strive to be friends of the environment though our commitment to sustainability.
The transformation from plastic bottle to woven masterpiece is remarkable. Can you walk us through the most challenging and rewarding parts of this process?
The first couple of steps in the weaving process are fairly easy, but with every step, in the six-step process, it becomes gradually more difficult. For this reason it is incredibly rewarding to cut the final weave off the frame. The final product represents perseverance and thousands of small victories over self-doubt.
Creative partner, Mamta, cutting the final “cane”weave off of the frame.
The weaving process is incredibly intricate. How do your artisans develop and maintain such precision in their craft?
Honestly, a lack of precision isn’t an option with this particular art form. If a step is missed, the entire pattern is lost. It is not a very forgiving practice. Creative partners learn this early on as they sometimes make an error that costs them 6-7 rows of work. It really only takes making a big mistake like that once to ensure precision. In the training process, while it can be painful watch, we allow our creative partners to make mistakes that they won’t soon forget. As they grow and master the craft, they take a lot of ownership and pride in their work, which further contributes to such precision.
Creative partners working together to finish a large frame of “cane”weave.
What goes into ensuring the quality, consistency, and durability of the up-cycled materials?
I’ll start by saying that the source segregation of waste materials ECOWRAP manages, is a huge contributing factor to the quality of the end product. The waste ECOWRAP collects isn’t mixed with wet waste, or contaminated by food waste. Because we receive relatively clean waste material, and at that in abundance, we can afford to be picky about the quality of cans or bottles we use. Creative partners themselves are proud of their work and ask for the least scratched bottles, and undented cans; weeding out anything that could distract from the final piece. They themselves help us improve quality control. We also offer regular feedback to our carpenter team, and troubleshoot challenges when they arise.
Checking in on the staining progress of a few of our products.
As far as consistency goes, there are multiple quality checks throughout the creative process, and the ladies we partner with hold themselves to pretty high standards. We have developed our own tools and systems to help check for consistency in the work.
A few of our “Trash to Tile” creative partners quality checking their tiles.
Durability has been one of Bhayli’s design values from the start. For this reason, we choose not to make products from MDF, up-cycled wood, or other alternatives that have the potential to significantly cut cost. We want to make quality products that last, so materials matter. While this is true, we simultaneously haven’t compromised in our commitment to sustainability. All of our wooden products, while not made from up-cycled wood, are made using mango wood, which is one of the most sustainable hardwoods. Mango wood is a bi-product of India’s mango industry. Mango trees can only produce fruit for up to about ten years. After that, they are cut down to make room for new fruiting mango trees.
How has Bhayli impacted the lives of the women involved? Could you share some personal stories of transformation from within your artisan community?
We have chosen very deliberately as an organization, to let the women we partner with speak for themselves. We feel it is not up to us to determine whether or not they have been empowered. I’ll instead share a few quotes in their words:
Bhayli’s creative partners.
“I have freedom at work that I didn’t have before.” -Urmila Devi
“The project has altered our lives since this work gives confidence. It also gives me financial support for me to be able to study. It feels good to be able to create something from waste.”-Nikita
“This employment brings us satisfaction, a sense of freedom and confidence...I want to advance our cause, and I feel like telling people on a bigger stage. We feel that it is better to produce something out of waste than to simply dump it.”- Mamta
“The best experience of working with Bhayli is when I share my ideas and everyone listens to that idea, understands, and supports me when I express my thoughts. I am very proud that along with Bhayli I have contributed to the improvement of our society and the environment. I am proud that Bhayli gives women a chance to work.” -Geeta Devi
“A change in thinking about work is coming among the women of the society. Where women were limited to household work, they are now earning while staying at home.” -Neelam and Basanti Devi
Creative partners, Neelam and Geeta Devi, seeing the finished product made from their tiles for the first time.
How do you identify and train new women artisans in rural Rajasthan?
This year has really been the first year that we have been able to consider scaling up. We recently reached out to the local panchayat in the geographical area we hope to begin working in, and that spread the word amongst women who might be interested. What began as a group of five, quickly grew to a group of 95 as we shared about what we do. We have put together a survey that helps us to assess need, as well as well as gather the expectations of potential creative partners. We want the art forms that we are using to be accessible regardless of education, prior skill, or possibly disabilities. We consider women regardless of their background.
Bansanti Devi is a valued member of the “Trash to Tile” team. Having given up embroidery long ago due to weakening eyesight, she is still able to embroider on the tiles as the work is far more tactile than traditional embroidery.
Bhayli’s partnership with ECOWRAP brings a unique circular model to life. How important is this closed-loop system to your brand philosophy?
We operate on a zero-dump model; meaning any waste we produce in creating a product gets brought back into the value chain. Many of the ladies that we partner with understand this, and are resourceful with their scraps. We want our products to utilize what others have discarded, and it would defeat the purpose if we created more waste in the process.
What inspires the designs of Bhayli products? Do you incorporate any traditional Rajasthani aesthetics or storytelling elements?
Many of the products that have been designed so far have come from very practical needs. The bangle box for example, was inspired by my own frustration in finding an ideal way to store the bangles I have accumulated over the years. I was looking for a solution that didn’t include wrapping them in newspaper and tucking them away deep in my almari.
Bhayli’s Handwoven Bangle Box.
When designing, we also consider what Indian households have use for in day-to-day life. We love that our first ever product (the handwoven hosting tray) is something that passes through the hands of women in every Indian household. This tray, which is intended for hosting, represents our creative partners being hospitable to their dreams.
Bhayli’s director, Erin Burneson, celebrating seeing Bhayli’s first product come together.
As far as inspiration, our “Waste to Weave” products are reminiscent of chairs you would see in local government offices, and our “Trash to Tile” products use designs similar what is found in Jaipur’s famous blue pottery tiles. We see the potential for incorporating more traditional elements into our designs in the future, which really excites us.
Bhayli’s used beverage can tiles inspired by Jaipur’s Blue Pottery designs.
What challenges do you foresee in scaling a handcrafted, eco-conscious brand like Bhayli?
I think one of the most pressing challenges is how customers perceive price. When customers find out that our products are up-cycled, they immediately assume our pieces are at a lower price point. While the irony of selling people back waste (sometime even their own waste) is not lost on us, it is the detailed handiwork that contributes to the final cost and value of the item. From the start we have been committed to paying our creative partners fare wages and have refused to compromise on that, even when it has cost us opportunities.
Creative Partner, Nikita, hand-pulling the plastic water bottles into strips in preparation for them to be hand-woven.
What advice would you give to young changemakers who want to build businesses rooted in community, sustainability, and creativity?
It is important to recognize and acknowledge the unique skillsets everyone in the process brings to the table. People appreciate when they are valued, and their ideas are considered. This can often lead to an even better final product.
Sustainability doesn’t happen overnight...as you learn, you can continue to align what you do with your values. To quote Maya Angelou, “When you know better, you do better.” It is important not to let perfection or an ideal standard paralyze you, or get in the way of progress.
I think it is important to realize that absolutely everything can be improved. Once a product or tools are created, don’t consider them done. Instead, invite curiosity surrounding what could make them better. Regarding the art forms or processes you develop; are there ways to improve efficiency? Design truly is iterative, so don’t let yourself consider anything truly finished.
